Day 1: Athens & the Archaeological Parkway

Settle into your hotel, then go for a walk along the Archaeological Park, which runs from Syntagma Square around the Acropolis; the new Acropolis Museum; past ancient Athens's shopping and civic center, the Agora; and into the Plaka, the heart of old -- and touristy -- Athens. Do what the Athenians do and stop for cappuccino, pastries, cheese, or yogurt at Oraia Ellada, a Plaka shop with a restaurant that offers a drop-dead-gorgeous Acropolis view. Browse through the old and new Greek folk art on view before continuing your walk past, endless shops selling T-shirts, olive oil soap, and refrigerator magnets and night lights in the shape of the Parthenon. For lunch, sit under the plane tree as you enjoy roast lamb at Platanos Taverna, or grab a souvlaki at Thanasis. Feeling revived? Stop at the little Museum of Popular Greek Musical Instruments, just a few feet away. Listen to recordings of Greek music and enjoy the peaceful garden. The slumbering tortoises there may remind you it's siesta time. Go to your hotel for a nap before you head out again for a nighttime stroll back to the Acropolis (even if it's closed, it's great at night when it's usually illuminated). For dinner, if you had a big lunch, you could just have a bite at one of the many fast-food cafeterias on Syntagma Square. Point to what you want and leave your phrase book in your pocket. If you're feeling energetic and missed it at lunch, head into the Plaka to eat at one of our suggestions for old-time "authentic" tavernas above.

 Day 2: Museums & Mount Likavitos

Visit the National Archaeological Museum to see sculptures, gold, and other impressive artifacts and -- if you get there just as the doors open -- as few tour groups as possible. Then head to the Acropolis, but first grab a snack at one of the kiosks on the slopes (fresh orange juice and a cheese pie anyone?). Spend the rest of the day enjoying the sprawling National Gardens and watching elderly women feeding stray cats, courting couples, and children chasing each other along shady paths. Then have dinner at Aegli. Or ride the cable car up Mount Likavitos before walking back down for drinks in Kolonaki Square. Try dinner a short walk away at To Kafeneio, a great place to enjoy the bustle of Athens's most fashionable neighborhood.

 Day 3: Mykonos & Paradise

By plane or ship, go to Mykonos. Settle into your hotel, then take a bus to one of the beaches outside town. Paradise attracts partiers who love loud music with their sun and sand, while Ornos is a quieter beach preferred by families. There are plenty of cafes on either beach for lunch. Back in town, get lost along winding streets and ogle the window displays of jewelry, cutting-edge clothes, and sling-back shoes. Perhaps end up at Caprice in Little Venice for a dry martini and good people-watching. Before dinner, walk to Mykonos's three waterside windmills. You won't be alone, but even with a crowd, this is a great spot to take in the view back across the harbor. You'll see Little Venice's chic, chicer, and chicest bars, perched vertiginously over the sea. If you want to alternate chic with casual, try the fish at Kounelas on the harbor, where you'll vie for a table with locals -- and longtime Mykonos visitors.

 Day 4: Mykonos & Delos

Take an early boat from Mykonos to Delos. Remember to bring sunscreen and a wide-brimmed hat so you can spend several hours admiring the acres of marble ruins in this ancient religious site and market. There's a snack bar by the museum, but you'll do better bringing your own food and picnicking in a patch of shade cast by the ancient monuments. When you get back to Mykonos, enjoy some shopping. Don't miss the fabulous jeweler's LALAoUNIS shop here. For dinner, sample the mezedes and grilled fish (or meat) at the Sea Satin Market, past the windmills at Kato Myli, overlooking the sea. If you want to see the sun come up, there are lots -- and lots -- of bars, cafes, and hangouts where you can spend the hours until dawn.

 Day 5: Santorini & Akrotiri

Head to Santorini next, by plane or ship. If you go by ship, you'll sail into the deep harbor with its high cliffs streaked with lava from the volcanic eruption that tore the island in half around 1450 B.C. -- this is one of the world's great travel experiences. Check into your hotel and rent a car, or sign up for a tour of the ancient site of Akrotiri, often called the "Pompeii of Greece," if it has reopened. If not, go to ancient Thira, perched on a mountaintop . Then take in the Boutari Winery, where the tour usually includes enough snacks and samples of local wines for a light lunch. In the evening, do what everyone does in Fira: Wander along the narrow streets before having drinks and dinner. For an inventive, memorable meal in a beautiful setting, make reservations at one of the best restaurants in all of Greece: Selene.

 Day 6: Ancient Thira & Kamari

Explore the island by car, tour, or the extensive local bus system. See the cliff-top site of ancient Thira before heading down to the famous black-sand beach at Kamari for a swim and lunch at Camille Stefani taverna. Back in Fira, see the reproductions of the beautiful Minoan wall paintings of Akrotiri in the Thira Foundation. In the evening, while tour buses take hordes of tourists to see the sunset at Oia, head to the village of Imerovigli and watch the sunset over a medieval fortress. Then, head on to Oia and try Katina's an excellent fish place in Ammoudi, Oia's minuscule port.

 Day 7: Athens.

Return early by plane or hydrofoil to Athens.